Buenos Aires Must-Do: A Tango Lesson...

...or 2, or 5, or 10!

Coming to Buenos Aires, my tango knowledge was limited to the clichés usually shown in movies: the man with sleeked back hair and a rose in his mouth (what about those thorns?!), and the woman in a fitted black dress and fishnet stockings.

Hmm, maybe I need to stop watching cheesy movies! As far as I know, the only part they got right is the sleeked out hair...

On my very first week in Buenos Aires, I was introduced to tango through a group class. But it wasn't until I went to a milonga (sort of a tango dance hall as well as a tango sub-genre) that I thought 'I want to do that!'  That refers to the magic that happens when a woman enters the close embrace of a man and closes her eyes as she is about to be taken on a voyage across the dance floor through intricate footsteps and melancholic music. Tango is so hot!

Group classes are great to start, but to really dive into the world of tango, I think it's best to go for private lessons. After asking around, I was put in contact with an instructor who works well with principiantes (beginners) like me. Because tango is not just about the steps, you see; it is about the history, the musicality, the lyrics and the emotions in the voice of the cantate. And to fully appreciate tango for what it is, one must understand those different aspects and incorporate them in each movement that the body makes. I'm not quite there yet, but I sure am on my way!

I didn't come to Buenos Aires with the intention of learning tango. At best, I thought I would go see a show that are put together for tourists like me.  But here I am now, searching for milongas back home, so that when I come back, I don't waste time and go straight from the airport to the tango dance floor!

Oh, and did I mention that women's tango shoes are TO DIE FOR!? ;)

City-wide tango competition.

Buenos Aires Must-Do: Puertas Cerradas

The vibrant city of Buenos Aires has more than just tango on its 'must-do' list! In my humble opinion, anyone who calls her or himself a foodie and wants to eat something other than steak or pasta will want to try a puertas cerradas, which translates as 'closed doors'. The clandestine-sounding concept is really simple: a few nights a week, a group of selected few gets the opportunity to eat at a chef's home.  This gives for an intimate setting and a chance to actually meet and talk to the maestro behind the delicious home-cooked (literally!) meals.

I had the opportunity to go to Cocina Sunae, which offers a blend of Southeast Asian menu. Everything was on point: the setting, the staff and, most importantly, the food. I hadn't had Asian food since arriving in Argentina, so it was important that this meal meets my expectation. And in actuality, my expectations were exceeded! 

Ensalada Talong with plantain chips

Dessert: Halo Halo

As a main course, I had the Pad Thai, which I did not take a picture of because I was too busy devouring it! The menu changes weekly and is posted on their website.

There is a puertas cerradas for every type of cuisine: French, Mexican, Middle-Eastern...you name it, there's a puertas cerradas for it! A quick Google search or word of mouth is the best way to find one.

If my days were not numbered in Buenos Aires, I would definitely go back, but at this point, I would prefer trying another one.

Yo Quiero Santiago!

Following my short stay in Mendoza, I decided to make my way to Santiago de Chile, which was a short 10 hours 'bus' ride (it was really a van and I was sitting next to the driver!). The ride  was quite nice, 'zig-zagging' our way on the edges of the Andes. Arriving at the bus terminal in Santiago, I was a bit skeptical, I almost asked the driver  if we had arrived to Santiago...I don't really know what I was expecting, but it was 'this'! I took a cab to my hostel, which was perfectly located in the Bellas Artes neighborhood, a neighborhood that I quickly fell in love with. The hostel was big, clean and well-decorated.

Checked-in, checked the dorm, and went out to familiarize myself with the neighborhood...and get some grub! As I was walking around, I noticed two things: 1)Santiago is a very nice city and 2) it is clean, so clean! I don't want to throw shade at Buenos Aires, but in Santiago the sidewalks were even and free of dog poo or any other form of lither. The metro (subway) is graffiti-free and spacious. The architecture is amazing, with the European influence clearly palpable.

But what really made fall in love with Santiago was the people I met, both Chileans and expats. I found the Chileans to be friendly and welcoming, with an off-color sense of humor that can throw off a non-Chilean. I met people from all over the world. What surprised me the most was how like-minded we all were, regardless of our country of origin. I had some of the most interesting and challenging conversations with people I may never see again. But at least I'll remember the way I felt in their presence.

It was strongly suggested that I go spend a day in Valparaiso, a coastal city 2 hours away from Santiago. So I did! It is known for the colourful houses that covers the cerros (hills) and the many funiculars use to get on top of those hills. But what I loved the most was the street art! It definitely adds character of the city. If you go for a day, arrive early to really enjoy it, otherwise I suggest staying at least two days.

Overall, after just a few days, Santiago now occupies a big place in my heart. I will definitely go back to Chile one day, and explore the rest of the country and what it has to offer. Also, I learned to not judge a city by the way its bus terminal looks like!

Tip: The free walking tours in Santiago and Valparaiso are the best way to know those cities.

The Land of Mendoza

For my first trip outside of Buenos Aires, I decided to go to Mendoza, the forth largest city in Argentina, on the eastern side of the Andes. Mendoza (the province) is also the epicenter of wine (Malbec) production in South America, which is what got me to go on this cross-country adventure that took no longer than 15 hours by bus! But let me tell you, it was so worth it! Here's why:

The landscape:

The Andes for a background? Picture perfect! Perhaps it is unrelated, but I thought that the onda of Mendoza was muy tranquilo. I think there is something soothing about being surrounded by such beautiful nature.

The wine and olive oil:

I did a guided wine tour with Trout & Wine and it was AMAZING! I was picked up from my hostel bright and early (8:30 am) by a lovely tour guide. Before heading to the first vineyard, we picked up four other people. I think it was barely 10:00 am when I tried the first (of many) wine! In total, we visited 4 wineries, each with their unique history and specialties. We  also had a delicious lunch in one of them. What I didn't know until the tour is that this region of Argentina is also a big producer of olive oil. We stopped at a olive oil producer, where we tried samples of differently flavored oils.The tour took the whole day, and it was absolutely worth it!

The hostel:

I stayed at Hostel Alamo, just on the outskirts of downtown Mendoza. It was at a perfect location, walking distance from the major attractions of Mendoza. Also, it was a very nice, clean and peaceful hostel, with a lovely backyard. The staff was friendly and I met some very nice people during my stay.

Overall, I enjoyed the three days I spent in Mendoza, but the travelling was far from over, as I was about to make my way to Chile!

Stay tuned for the adventures on the Chilean side!

A Day In Buenos Aires

It's been over a month since I'm in Buenos Aires. Some days have been quite eventful, while others, not so much! And I'm OK with that. I guess it's a sign that I've passed the tourist stage; I'm starting to know my way around (although this website has been awesome!), I understand what is being said to me in castellano, most of the time! I fell in love with dulce de leche and had my fair share of vino tinto. And leaving my apartment at 2 o'clock in the morning to join some friends at a milonga sounds perfectly normal to me now!

But what is my impression of Buenos Aires?

Because I was asked the question by porteños, and I stumbled through my answer. Well, the first words that comes to mind when I think of describing Buenos Aires is 'organised chaos'. Things that should be straightforward -like getting the oven to work or hot water, or getting a bus/metro card - are deceptively challenging. In Buenos Aires, you don't just turn the button to get the oven going and you may have to go to several kioskos to get a Subte card. The driving is probably the worst, and most dangerous, that I've seen. The concept of 'pedestrians first' is completely foreign! Even when it's your turn to cross, you still have to be careful. In contrast, however, there are more jaywalkers here than anywhere else that I've been too, and there is no need to worry about getting a ticket from the cops! 

It may sound like I'm complaining, but I'm not. Buenos Aires is a great city, with many quirks! The people may seem reversed at first, but once you talk to them, there are quite friendly and curious. Ultimately, Buenos Aires has a charm that rubs on you.